Travelling in Style

Most people choose to fly between Malaga and the UK, but I have recently done the journey in a different way, and it was rather like a mini-holiday in itself.
We booked the car on P & O Ferries´ “The Pride of Bilbao”, leaving from Portsmouth at 20.00, and checked in to our comfortable cabin with private shower and lavatory. “The Pride of Bilbao” departs from Portsmouth twice a week on Tuesdays and Saturdays at 20.00. The trip to Bilbao in northern Spain takes 36 hours. The Tuesday departure arrives in Bilbao on Thursday am, and the Saturday departure on Monday am. The price is the same whichever the departure day.
The return journey only takes 29 hours, and therefore the Thursday departure arrives Friday at 16.30 and the Monday departure on Tuesday at 16.30.
Catering facilities are excellent and varied, ranging from a self-service cafeteria to a choice of two more up-market restaurants. There are, of course, several bars throughout the ferry.
As one would expect from P & O Ferries, passengers are kept entertained throughout, with an evening show, competitions, bingo, choice of films, and a casino staffed mostly by pretty Phillipino girls. There is also a childrens´ entertainment programme with games, competitions and everything to keep the kids happy.
Access to all decks is by a fast lift as well as by wide staircases. On the bottom deck there is a swimming pool, with its own bar, separate saunas for both sexes and a hot jacuzzi. There is an information desk on board, catering to all passengers´ queries.
I wanted to use my time on the ferry to catch up with some reading, so the quieter top deck was my favourite. Here there are comfortable sofas and easy chairs, with a handy bar serving drinks and light refreshments. The experienced traveller quickly finds a spot near the large windows running along either side of the ferry, where we sat in the sunshine admiring the calm sea and spotting the numerous dolphins gracefully diving and leaping to the great delight of the passengers. There is also access, of course, to the open air deck.
For those who want to indulge in a little retail therapy there are several shops selling wines, spirits, clothes, perfume, make-up – very similar to what one finds in airport departure lounges, with the usual selection of special offers.
Some passengers were returning to the UK with the ferry immediately, treating the trip as a mini cruise. Others were exploring northern Spain on their own, or by coach, organised by a tour operator.
Further information can be found on P & O Ferries´web site www.poferries.com.
On arrival at Bilbao at breakfast time, one has the choice of driving south, or taking the Auto Express train from Bilbao to Malaga. For any culture lover wishing to visit the magnificent new Guggenheim museum in Bilbao, please note that it is closed on Mondays. We took the latter choice, and thoroughly enjoyed the experience. One can sleep in a compartment of six berths, or elect to travel in one´s own private cabin, with personal shower and lavatory, and with proper beds which are made up by the conductor after the train departs. On the train there is a bar and restaurant serving snacks. During daylight hours it was interesting to see parts of Spain different from what one can see by car – acres of sunflowers bobbing their heads in the sun, olive groves, gorges, isolated farms, and the usual country folk staring at the train as though it had come from the moon! If one compares the cost of petrol, overnight hotel accommodation, etc. I consider there is little difference in the price of taking the train or driving through Spain. For pensioners resident in Spain there is a considerable discount on the price.
All information is available on RENFE´s web site, any RENFE station, or at selected travel agents.

CORDOBA

Like many important Spanish towns, Cordoba has a rich and varied history of conquest and re-conquest. Romans, Visigoths, Moors, and Christians have all played a part in the creation of this most interesting Andaluz town situated on the Guadalquivir River. It was founded in Carthaginian times (about 800 BC) and taken for the Romans by Marcus Claudius Marcellus in the 2nd century AD. The Romans ruled Spain until about 400 AD when the decline of their empire aided the arrival of the Visigoths from northern Europe, who ruled until the Moors finally conquered Spain in the 8th century, making Cordoba the regional capital of Al Andalus (Andalucia). They were to remain in power in Spain for 700 years, although Cordoba itself was re-conquered by the Christians in 1236.
There are some Roman remains, most notably the old bridge, and the reconstructed columns of the 1st century temple next to the town hall. However, as in many other Andaluz towns, it is the culture of the Moors and the Christians that permeates Cordoba.
By far the most important example of this is the magnificent Mosque (Mezquita). Declared a World Heritage site in 1984, it is the second most important place of Islamic worship after Mecca. Building work started in 787 AD on the site of St. Vincent’s Church, which itself was built on the remains of a Roman temple. It is colossal, consisting of eleven naves covering approximately 23.500 sq.mt, and can hold 25.000 people. But what one remembers most is its incredibly beautiful interior, with its row after row of marble columns bearing their red and white striped delicate arches, all 110 of them pleasingly and symmetrically positioned. Many of these columns were re-used from previous Roman, Byzantine, and Visigoth buildings, and they are all slightly different. Some have double arches, reminiscent of Roman aqueducts. Of great beauty also is the Mihrab (prayer niche), with its intricate coloured and gilded mosaics. A minaret was built in 950 and is now the bell tower.
With the re-conquest the Christians built their Cathedral within the Mosque. One can only assume that they were so impressed by the beauty and splendour of the Mosque they decided to leave it standing. How grateful we should be! The Cathedral is much smaller, holding about 200 people, and architecturally is mainly baroque and renaissance. It contains some fine ecclesiastical treasure, murals, and paintings, including an impressive gold processional monstrance made in 1510, and paraded during Corpus Christi.
As in many Spanish towns, Arabs, Jews, and Christians lived harmoniously together before the re-conquest, each playing their part in society. The Arabs and Jews were in the majority, the former being the architects, leather workers, builders, etc., and the latter tending to be the doctors, pharmacists, and moneylenders. The Jewish quarter (La Juderia) in the old part of the town not far from the Mosque is a charming mixture of small streets, patios, gardens, and fountains. So lovely are the flower filled patios that every year in May there is a competition for the best, with considerable cash prizes given by the local authorities. Needless to say, these colourful patios attract many visitors to the town. Whilst in the Jewish quarter, don’t miss the lovely bronze statue of Maimonides, the famous Jewish philosopher and physician who codified Jewish law in the Torah in 1180. Touching this statue is said to bring good fortune.
Other places of interest are the Jewish synagogue, now a museum, the Alcazar (fortress), and the Calahorra fort guarding the Roman bridge.
Just outside the town to the west lie the ruins of what clearly was a magnificent town. The construction of Madinat Al-Zahra was started in 936 by Caliph Abd al-Rahman 111 as his personal residence and seat of government, probably in place of Cordoba. Its luxury and splendour cannot be over emphasized. Graceful buildings, gardens, fountains, and courtyards were in abundance. The finest rose coloured marble, jasper, alabaster, and ebony were brought from places like Syria and Africa. Even the pools were filled with quicksilver instead of water to give lustre and brilliance. But it was short lived, and 100 years later it was in decline, constantly being attacked by warring Berber tribes. Some of its treasures have found their way to museums, but much was destroyed.
Excavation work began in 1911, but only a tenth part of the total area of 112 hectares within the walled city has been completed. Nevertheless there is much to be seen, and the imposing four arches remaining from the original fifteen of the parade ground, as well as the beautiful Salon Rico of the Caliph, which is still being painstakingly restored, give one a fascinating glimpse into the sumptuous past of the medieval Islamic world.

Mijas Pueblo

Mijas is, of course, mostly famous for its views and donkeys! It also has a good selection of bars and restaurants for tourists and locals alike. But another important, but less publicised feature of Mijas is its churches – there are four in a population of 42.000. Now, before you quickly turn the page, let me hasten to add that I am not suggesting you visit all four of these, but simply want to tell you about two aspects of them.
Tucked away in the village, just beyond the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) is one of the smallest churches in the world. Naturally it is a tourist attraction, but it also attracts the local worshippers, young as well as old. Although small, there is much to be seen here. One immediately notices the doll-likeVirgin staring down at us, called La Virgen de la Pena. Then there are the exquisitely embroidered ceremonial clothes for the Virgin and Child displayed in showcases on the walls alongside the huge, silver carved candlesticks. Such religious magnificence even in this tiny church! And for me, born and bred non-conformist Protestant that I am, there is the always-fascinating sight of the devout performing the rituals required by the Catholic Church. They sometimes leave behind, pinned to the rock wall, some small item, such as an inexpensive piece of jewellery, or a plait of hair. Are these tokens of thanks for prayers answered, I ask myself, or perhaps an “I was there” statement. As I watch the worshippers I ponder, not for the first time, do I pity them for their faith in statues and ritual, or do I envy them?
Every Spanish village and town has its very own Virgin. The statue of the Virgin de los Dolores is brought out, and paraded on a trono (throne) on special occasions like Easter and the local feast day. In Mijas she is brought out from her church situated near the viewing areas above the small Plaza de la Constitucion at the beginning of the local feria, the first week in September. The other time she is brought out, together with tronos bearing statues of Christ on the Cross, and lying down after being taken down from the Cross, is at Easter. The Mijas Easter procession is small compared with large towns like Malaga, Granada, Seville, etc., but because of its intimacy, for me, it is all the more interesting. Leading the procession is the ubiquitous boys’ band, followed by the richly decorated tronos, and then by the local ladies dressed in black, displaying their lovely high mantillas (Spanish headdress), each carrying a candle. Also in the procession are the penitents, dressed in their long robes and pointed headdresses, so reminiscent of the Klu Klux Klan costumes, often barefooted. A person will go barefooted sometimes because a promise has been made to God to do so in thanks and recognition of a prayer answered. The procession slowly wends its way around the village, frequently stopping to allow the bearers of the tronos to rest. In a village like Mijas, families are mostly known to one another, and recognizing people in the procession adds another dimension, missing in the larger towns. For me, the best place to feel the atmosphere is in the little Plaza de la Constitucion, full of the village people, some leaning out of the windows and balconies above the square, all expectantly awaiting the procession which can be heard long before its arrival, as it slowly, carefully descends the steep hill from the church and into the square.
After the procession has passed people wander into the bars and restaurants to eat and drink and have fun – as always in Spain, a mixture of the secular and religious.

Stroll and Daydream

If you could only choose one city in Spain to visit then Granada should be at the top of your list. Granada is a city for strolling and daydreaming. This historic centre presents an array of attractions and modern city life gels perfectly with a life of the past.
Access to the city is a piece of cake. By air, it benefits from its own airport. By train or bus it has every connection possible and by road, all the major highways converge on the city, connecting with the ring road that encircles the city like a scalextric track.
Granada will undoubtedly be best identified with the Alhambra, a Moorish complex of huge proportions, containing towers, palaces, courtyards and some of the best gardens in Spain. Each year, thousands of tourists flock to the Alhambra from every corner of the world. Its one of those wonderful monuments that simply has to be seen.
A visit to the Alhambra will however take you the best part of a day and if your visit to the city is a short one it will hardly allow time to take in the rest, and there is plenty of it.
Granada is best explored on foot and providing you have suitable footwear, the Alhambra area is a good place to park and start your walk. Granada doesn’t really benefit from a central point. It consists of several areas, each to be explored separately. Each area intertwines with its neighbour. The roads are a network of winding alleys and narrow streets, occasionally being intersected by a major avenue. It is within these narrow streets that you will stumble across some of the most beautiful buildings. Most have been restored much to the delight of the visitor yet the restorations have been sympathetic to the period designs.
If you should start your tour at the Alhambra, it is here that you will find the most and easiest parking. It is also here that you will be able to obtain a map of the city, a sure must have item if you are to get the best from your visit. From the Alhambra, walk down the steep hill into the San Matias area. Here you will find the Town Hall, housed in a former convent dating from 1627. Nearby you will find the Corral del Carbon, a former Moorish corn exchange and inn from the 13th century. Standing in the centre of Plaza de Isabel la Catolica you will see the splendid statue of the famous queen with Columbus at her feet. The monument dates from 1892 and commemorates the discovery of America, 400 years earlier. On every street corner you will see an intricately carved façade where modern architecture blends perfectly with that of the 15th and 16th centuries.
The glazed, tiled top of the cathedral towers between the banks and office buildings, beckoning you to pay a visit. When you have fought your way past the tiny shops plying their typical tourist wares, explore the interior of the cathedral. Although started in Gothic style, much of it is renaissance with a 17th century façade. Next to the cathedral you will find the Royal Chapel, housing the Royal tombs and a good selection of important works of art. Granada has been in possession of many important works since time began and many can be seen adorning the walls of the city museums.
It’s impossible to say where the best area is for finding lunch. The whole city is a culinary delight and the best restaurants will be stumbled upon. You will never have to walk far in Granada to find a shady spot to rest and eat.
Your next stroll should be through the Albacin area where the Rio Darro seems to appear from nowhere. It meanders around the base of the Alhambra, flowing beneath the many ancient bridges. Follow the route of the river and in one street alone you will find a dozen important landmarks including the Royal Chancery, a convent, the Arab Baths and the Archaeological museum. By the time you have trodden the cobbled lane you will find yourself in the Sacremonte area. It is here that the cave houses play host to some of the best flamenco shows in Spain. At night the area is alive with life and colour, by day it is a sleepy, tranquil area where the pure white render reflects the heat of the day. Unfortunately from here you will need to retrace your steps to the foot of the Alhambra. On the way, you will however be rewarded with panoramic views of the fortress.
Granada is about people and the city has evolved to cater for all kinds. The needs of the modern shopper intertwine with the demands of the tourist. Designer names sit high on the shop fronts alongside the miniature tourist shops, crammed to capacity with fine examples or ceramics, cloth, leather and wrought ironware. Jewellery abounds as does the famous Granada marquetry. Everything from small boxes to large pieces of furniture has been decorated with precious woods, finely inlaid in intricate patterns. Granada is also a centre for guitar making and it’s musical wares find their way all over the world.
At night, the city of Granada takes on a very different appearance. The streets pulse with action and music, partially influenced by the number of university students who reside here. The cuisine takes on a very international flavour and most good restaurants fill to the point of overflowing. Be prepared for a queue into the best.
When it comes to festivals and celebrations, Granada knows how to party. The Holy Week celebrations at Easter are something to be wondered at. Each year the crowd swells to an all time high in a mix between religion and just an excuse to party. There are daily processions, some unique to the city. Some to the tune of brass bands and some in total silence. By far the biggest festival in the city is that of Corpus Cristi in May when you will see bullfights, dancing in the streets and modern cars are replaced with horses and carriages.
Granada has progressed into a modern, thriving city but has managed to maintain and protect its history. There is no doubt that the city benefits from tourism and the tourists are number one priority. Visitors money has been well spent and injected back into the city, in turn making it an easier and more pleasant place to be.

Antequera

So you have visited Ronda, Granada, Cordoba, and Seville, but are still eager to explore this fascinating part of Spain. For the lover of beautiful countryside and/or culture, or just a nice day's drive, I suggest you visit Antequera - about an hour's drive from the coast.Less famous, perhaps, than the other great Andalusian towns, Antequera is located in the very heart of Andalucia, beside the mountain range, the Torcal of Antequera. It is easily reached by public transport, coach or train, from Malaga, but by car one can better appreciate the wonderful scenery and the profusion of wild flowers, particularly at this time of the year after the recent heavy rains.
Antequera's cultural heritage in the main derives from its occupation in the past by Celto-Ibericos, Romans, and Moors. The 16 th and 17 th centuries, after the re-conquest when the Moors were finally expelled from Spain, were Antequera's Golden Age. Notwithstanding this, the Romans gave it its name. Antiqaria, meaning ancient, indicating probably that the land was inhabited previously.
If travelling to Antequera by car, just before arriving look out for the huge, unique mountain, which resembles the face of a man lying on his back. It is called "La Pena de los Enamorados" - "The Lovers' Sorrow". Legend has it that during the period when the Moors ruled Andalucia, a young Christian boy, Tello, imprisoned by the Moors, fell in love with the daughter, Tagzona, of the local Moorish administrator. Marriage between the two was impossible, so they eloped. Chased by the guards, led by Tagzona's father, they fled to the mountain, which they climbed. Cornered at the top, with the archers pointing their bows at them, they linked hands and jumped to their death.
On entering Antequera, one is immediately aware of its Arabic influence, demonstrated by the charming Moorish architecture. After the Catholic Kings, Isabel and Ferdinand, finally expelled the Moors at the end of the 15 th century, prosperous Spanish from further north were encouraged to relocate to towns like Antequera to fill all the administrative posts left vacant by the Arabs. Consequently over the next two centuries many great houses, palaces, and churches were built, mostly in the baroque style. The huge amounts of gold and silver that were pouring into Spain, sent by the conquistadors, no doubt financed much of this building work. An example of this is the Palace of
Nájera, built by a wealthy Spaniard from Rioja, which is now the town's museum.
This museum is small, but interesting. On entering, you cross a typical Andalucian courtyard, arriving at a small exhibition of Roman artefacts. Unquestionably the star exhibit is the exquisite bronze figure of a young Roman boy, "El Efebo de Antequera". It has been described as the most beautiful antique artefact to come from Spain. It was discovered locally when a farmer was ploughing his field, and although damaged, it has been very well restored. So special is it that it has been frequently exhibited outside of Antequera, both in Spain and abroad. Another charming exhibit is the "Venus de Antequera", a marble head discovered recently during excavations in the town. Here too is a very fine carving by Pedro de Mena of Francis of Assisi.
The main part of the museum on the first floor consists mostly of religious vestments and artefacts of stunning richness. The silver and gold on display is quite breathtaking. The majority of this is on loan by a local "confradia" (religious brotherhood), and these items are only taken out for the Easter processions. Look out for the huge, carved silver cross, which takes over a hundred people to carry.
Also housed in the museum is an exhibition of the paintings of one of Antequera's most famous sons, Cristobal Toral, who is now based in Madrid. Especially interesting is the large painting o the wall at the end of the room, stunning in daylight, but even more stunning when viewed under electric light, when it miraculously acquires a 3-D aspect.
From the museum it is just a short walk, although uphill, to the Arco de los Gigantes, a 400-year-old archway. From here you have wonderful views over the town and surrounding countryside, and a little further on you can view the Roman ruins currently being excavated. Here also is a huge baroque cathedral, the Real Colegiate de Santa Maria, now no longer used as a cathedral, but as a venue for musical recitals and conferences. The building is a mixture of many architectural styles - Moorish, Baroque, Renaissance, Roman, and Corinthian, which could be said to reflect Spain's architectural history in one fell swoop. Within there is a small shop where one can buy cards, books, etc. on Antequera. In this area too is the Alcazaba, the Moorish fortress overlooking the town.
Although Antequera's population is approximately 40,000, it boasts 24 churches, the largest number of churches in one town in Spain!
On a more secular note, as always in Spain, there is an abundance of cafes, bars, and good restaurants. The tourist office, a few minutes walk from the museum, has details of many of these, and also pensions and hotels. The Tel. No. is 952 70 25 05.

Exploring Andalucia

One doesn’t have to venture far from the sandy beaches of the Costa del Sol to explore one of Andalucia’s hidden gems. Mijas (Pronounced Mee-has), is also known as ‘Villa Blanca’ or the White Town and deservedly so for it’s whitewashed houses, built in traditional Andalucian style sit in tiered rows, embraced by the Sierra de Mijas.
Mijas is one of the most picturesque villages in southern Spain and despite having developed to cater for the demands of modern tourism, it has managed to retain its unique character and charm. One of the key words in Mijas is relaxation and you will find plenty of places to practice it. The Muralla Gardens has the most outstanding views of the coastline and has been cleverly designed so as to have flowers in bloom, all year round. The wall marking the edge of the gardens is all that remains of the ancient fortress that once protected Mijas.
The Plaza de la Virgen de la Pena, in the heart of the village offers a peaceful resting place from the many tourist shops and quaint walks. Mijas is a maze of tiny narrow streets, many haven’t changed for centuries. Narrow and steep lanes are lined with glaring white houses, adorned with fancy ironwork and colourful ceramics. The steepest of streets still have the steps in the middle, designed to aid the mules ascending with their heavy loads.
Mijas is one of the most visited towns in southern Spain and has much to offer the visitor. Despite its small size, Mijas has several churches, the most significant being the Santuario de la Virgen de la Pena. The origins of this church, set into the rock face, go back to 1586 when the virgen miraculously appeared at the top of a tower. An image of the virgen was subsequently discovered hidden in a recess in the tower where it had been secreted for five centuries.
Set high in the mountain side, overlooking the village is the Ermita del Calvario, built in 1710. It is open only on Fridays during Lent and is reached by means of a leafy path leading from the village.
Mijas also offers several museums. One of the most unusual is the Carromato de Max, (Max’s Caravan), a museum with the most incredible miniature exhibits. The Museo Taurino is a small, private museum dedicated to the history of bullfighting. It is located close to the unique oval shaped bullring.
You can’t visit Mijas without taking a ride on one of the donkey taxis, a tradition continued daily since the 1960’s.
This pre-Roman, hilltop village gained its importance due to its elevated position at 425 metres above the sea level and over the years the municipality has grown to cover 147 square kilometres and extended to the coast where the Las Lagunas and La Cala developments have appeared. This area is one of the most sought after areas for foreigners to purchase property.
Mijas has adapted perfectly to cope with the demand for new properties and the authorities have adopted an environmentally friendly approach, preserving the beauty of Mijas to be enjoyed by future generations.

The Dolmens & El Torcal

de Antequera

Just about 1km from Antequera, as one approaches from the coast lie The Dolmens of Antequera. These are ancient burial sites, of which very little is known, and are amongst the best conserved in Europe. Although the Dolmens are referred to as burial sites, in fact only the bones of people were placed there. They consist of enormous stone slabs weighing up to 180 tons, obviously placed in a deliberate formation, 4 metres high, 6 metres wide, and 25 metres long. These were placed approximately 4500 years ago, and it is an utter mystery how these huge stone were transported in an era when there were no obvious means of transport, and although at the end of the stone age and beginning of the use of metal, there were no really useful tools for this kind of operation.

But not only were they somehow transported, they were positioned very precisely so that the first rays of the rising sun of the summer solstice penetrated the interior of the funeral monument, and between the curves of the nearby mountain, La Peña de los Enamorados. It is worth noting that the timing of the placing of these huge slabs, within a few hundred years, coincides with the building of the pyramids in Egypt, and of Stonehenge in the UK, One theory is that these people were sun and earth worshippers, and the Dolmens were possibly places of worship and veneration.

The site is open every day of the week, but if visiting it would be wise to check with the local tourist office.

The other side trip I would recommend within this region is a visit to El Torcal de Antequera which was officially declared a Natural Park in 1978 and is a protected area. It really is the most amazing landscape I have ever seen and would be the ideal setting for films requiring a moonscape setting! It is a surreal landscape and unique in Europe. The strange rock formations are limestone, and are the result of the accumulation of shells and skeletons of marine animals deposited in successive layers on the floor of an extinct sea which covered the area around two hundred million years ago during the Jurassic period. These sediments kept their horizontal formation and it was all subject to a peculiar erosion process which together with the action of ice expansion and other chemicals in the atmosphere over many years resulted in these strange rock formations. Again, there is much to see here in the rich and varied flora and fauna. There are lovely signposted paths laid out amongst the rocks and the visitor is welcome to take a stroll which lasts about 50 minutes. There are detailed descriptions of the unique geological processes along the route, and there is a small, interesting museum which helps one to make sense of this truly amazing place.
You can get to Torcal from Malaga by taking the N331 road. From Antequera you take the road to Villanueva de la Concepcion, and the road to Torcal is about 12km once you have passed the Boca del Asno.
And as a bonus, why not spoil yourself and have an overnight stay at the tranquil Posada de Torcal, a delightful old country-house style hotel in "cortijo" style, run by an English couple to the highest standards.

Madrid

Madrid is one of Spain’s prize gems and has always been the political and royal centre of the country. It is a city beyond any comparison but don’t be intimidated by its size and splendour. The city will welcome you with open arms and you will certainly want to pay her another visit. Don’t visit Madrid with any preconceptions and you will be pleasantly surprised; there’s a surprise around every corner.
The Puerta del Sol has always been one of the most popular squares in the city and has been the scene of many of Spain’s most important historic events, including the uprising of 1808, the first gas lights in Spain and the first Metro line. It is also the starting point (km0) for Spain’s major highways. This square is also the perfect place to start your tour of the city. During the 15th century, this square was on the outskirts of the city, with a gate facing the sun, hence its name. Nowadays, the only original building that remains is the Post Office building. In one corner of the square you will find a statue depicting the bear and the madrona which forms part of the city’s coat of arms. This square leads onto some wonderful streets; now pedestrianised and housing some of the city’s finest shops.
Madrid can easily be divided into bite-sized chunks. The Campo area on the west bank of the river offers very little but a fine park and lake. The financial centre is home to the head offices of many large Spanish companies and the historical centre from which Madrid has expanded. The latter being the area you are most likely to want to explore.
The easiest way to explore the city is to purchase a ticket on the open-top tour bus. They are reliable and frequent and cover three different routes. With a day ticket you can hop on and off as many times as you like. The buses stop at all the major attractions.
The Plaza Mayor is another of Madrid’s fine squares. The best time to visit the square is at lunchtime when the street cafes and restaurants fill to capacity. On Sunday mornings the square plays host to the weekly stamp and collectors fair. The Plaza Mayor dates from 1617 and was once the site of the city’s largest weekly market. Today it is a constant hive of activity. Within the square are 136 houses, having 437 balconies from which 50,000 people could observe major events such as bullfights, royal weddings and the proclamation of monarchs. In the centre of the square is an equestrian statue of Philip III. The tourist office is to be found on one corner of the square.
Madrid has several main arteries running through its centre. One of the most important is the Gran Via. If you have the energy to walk its length, you will notice how the architecture changes, illustrating how the street has expanded through the centuries. The street houses some of Madrid’s finest hotels, churches and theatres.
Alcala is another main route through the city. It came into existence in the 17th century and once joined the city with its external suburbs. The Neo-classical arch ‘Puerta de Alcala’ stands in the centre with its five impressive archways. The monument was commissioned by Charles III in 1778 as a symbol of the city’s importance.
Always a popular area for walkers is the Paseo del Prado. Formerly part of the city outskirts, this area is truly beautiful. Look out for the statues of Neptune, Apollo and Cibeles. The Prado Museum will also no doubt be on the top of your list of places to visit. The museum is the most important in Spain and houses some of the finest pieces of art in the world. Entry to the museum is just 3 euros and free on Wednesdays. The museum is closed on Mondays.
If after walking the streets, you need a place to rest, head for El Retiro Park. This is the largest park in the city and incorporates gardens, fountains, monuments and a lake on which you can take a boat ride. At weekends, most of the city can be seen strolling and resting in the park.
One thing you can expect from Madrid is diversity. Modern architecture blends harmoniously with historical buildings; a wide variety of cultures live side by side, their daily lives intertwining. Whatever preconceptions you have, leave them at home and enter the city with an open mind. Madrid is alive and breathing. She’s so much more than a city.

A Stroll in Andalucia

Rushing streams, towering mountains, picturesque mountain railway. Switzerland? No – inland Andalucia!
This month I wish to write mainly for those of you who wish to explore a little inland from the Costa del Sol, and especially for those to whom some easy walking might appeal. Throughout the province the Junta de Andalucia has marked out many delightful walks of varying degrees of difficulty, opening up a new world to explore in this interesting part of the world.
The walk I did was described as “dificultad baja” – easy walk. From Benaojan to Jimena de Libar it is 9 kms long and it took about two hours. Although not for the very unfit, it is a lovely way to spend the day. Obviously one should wear a stout pair of shoes, preferably proper boots. Any type of walking in Andalucia should be avoided in summer! Although autumn and winter are perfectly suitable, I recommend the spring, when the profusion of wild flowers is wonderful, and on this walk there was even an abundance of wild orchids.
From the coast, you should take the road to Ronda, follow the route to Seville and Ardales until the turn off for Benaojan. If you miss the turning, turn off a few minutes later at the turning for Montejaque and follow the road round to Benaojan.
To commence the walk, cross the railway track, pass the river Guadiaro until you come to a sign describing the route, where you turn right. For two heavenly hours you will more or less follow the little toy town railway line which in turn follows the stream winding its way through the mountains. During this time you will enjoy the most spectacular views, see the huge fish in the stream, and if lucky, glimpse a turtle or two.
At the end of this most interesting walk, if you haven’t taken a picnic, you can have lunch or just drinks at the delightful Querus restaurant, which is best described as an up-market venta. I ate a whole rabbit, which appears to be a speciality of the house, which was unusual and good.
After lunch, some of our group elected to return by train from the station of Jimena de Libar, a few hundred yards from Querus, to Benaojan, which takes just 7 minutes. The fitter amongst us chose to retrace their steps and walk for another two hours. The two train stations form part of the interesting train journey, which begins at Algeciras and ends at Granada via Ronda and Antequera. One could, of course, take the train immediately after the walk, and return to Benaojan, where there are a couple of restaurants.
Even for those for whom the thought of walking fills them with horror, driving to inland Andalucia offers something completely different from the delights of The Costa del Sol. And instead of rushing back, for a restful stay, what better than to spend a night or two at the Molino del Santo? This is a pleasant hotel by the river run by a charming British husband and wife team, and again booking is advisable.

Sun, Sea, Siesta and

Sangria

The lure of living in Spain touches thousands of people in the UK every year and the increase in property sales to foreigners is sure proof that thousands of them bite and take the plunge. Television programs in the UK, dedicated to moving to Spain are a known trigger that inspire many Brits to pack up and leave, as are the many property exhibitions that spring up all over the British Isles every month. At the end of the day, let’s face it; you can hardly blame them when you consider what Spain has to offer the foreign resident – and not just sun, sea, siestas and sangria.
Everyone who has moved to Spain has a unique and interesting story to tell of their move and their life in this wonderful country and every one of them has found their own pitfalls. Most of them will happily share their experiences with you over a glass of sangria whilst sat in the sun while everyone else enjoys their siesta.
Some buy property in Spain purely from an investment point of view which is a story in itself but those who move to Spain, lock, stock and barrel are those with the most interesting story to tell. Most arrive in Spain with the impression that Spain is simply England with constant sunshine – wrong. Spain is very different and although it may offer endless, glorious days, this can be the downfall of many. It is so different living in the heat to being on holiday for a couple of weeks a year. It’s a proven fact that people live longer, healthier lives in Spain but you still need to be aware that the sun can be your worst enemy. Life is slower here, not through choice but the heat can knock the wind from your sails. You will also benefit from the diet in Spain. 90% of your meals will consist of fresh foodstuffs which all adds years to your life.
For the foreign resident in Spain, life is what you make it and you get out what you put in. Spain will welcome you with open arms; your money is valuable to the thriving economy. You will find all the home comforts you are used to here.
You will have ample opportunities for a busy social life and there are more options for relaxing than you will have time for. Whatever you do though, in order to fully integrate into the Spanish way of life, you must accept the culture of the Spanish people, no matter how strange you may find it.
You will quickly learn that you don’t call anyone in the heat of the day and disrupt their siestas, a sure way to make enemies. Don’t force your English language on them, they will be happy to speak English but will love you more for having a go in Spanish, no matter how bad you think it sounds. Take an interest in their traditions and celebrations. The Spanish people love to show off, especially to foreigners. Study their fiestas and you will be subjected to an explosion of colour and sound. Take time to see a genuine flamenco show, something that’s been around longer than the tourist and something the Spanish take very seriously and if you ever get the chance to take part, go for it. They will never mock you but will adore the fact that they can do something better than you. It would be the equivalent of a Spaniard taking part in a Morris dance.
Life in Spain is an affordable paradise and there are no excuses for not having a go. Let’s face it, nowadays if you get home sick you can be back on British soil in less than three hours, and for less than the price of an Intercity train ticket, and if you are really fortunate you can have the best of both worlds and commute to and from your holiday home in the sun on a regular basis.

Art & Nature

The Costa del Sol has much to offer, but so too does the interior of the province of Malaga. And yet so few non-Spanish people know of the beautiful and spectacular scenery on our doorstep.
In particular I want to draw your attention to the charming village of Genalguacil. It’s a small “pueblo” situated in the heart of the Valle de Genal which itself forms part of the Serrania de Ronda. It’s name indicates its Moorish origins and was originally “Genal-Ahuacir”, which means “Gardens of the Visir”. And what an appropriate name! Surrounded by spectacular countryside, this village of steep, winding streets full of whitewashed typical Andaluz houses, is a profusion of flowers, carefully tended by the local villagers who are proud that outsiders wish to visit their attractive pueblo.
So the village is worth a visit for its own sake, but what sets Genalguacil apart from the other picturesque villages in the area is its commitment to the promotion of art – painting, sculpture, ceramics, cork sculpture, etc.
Proof of this can be seen on the walls of the village itself. From 1994, during the first two weeks of August, Genalguacil has opened its heart and village to artists of all ages and talents. In collaboration with the Junta de Andalucia, the Town Hall offers free accommodation, meals, and working materials to a carefully selected group of artists, who must apply for a place in advance. The artists must agree that the work they produce during these two weeks is given to the village to form part of its cultural heritage. Hence the fascinating selection of art to be found throughout the village, all of which is clearly marked and signposted. Genalguacil has now become a virtual “Open Air Museum”. Some of the works which cannot be displayed outdoors will form the basis of a future interior museum. A catalogue is produced of the works realised during the two weeks. During this period there are many other art related activities in the village – theatre, music, exhibitions, fair, etc.
As the Town Hall says, Genalguacil is a point of reference, not for commercial artists necessarily, but rather how art, self-expressed in various forms, can combine with nature and daily life in a small community.
The map shows how to reach Genalguacil, and a coffee stop at either Casares or Guacin is recommended. I suggest a visit there, be it during the first two weeks in August to see the artists at work, or later when it is cooler, be combined with trying the local cuisine – their own version of Gazpacho, served hot, Revueltos de Ajetes y Setas (wild mushrooms with scrambled eggs), Salmorejo de carne (another type of gazpacho with meat). There are several bars and informal restaurants, and for a longer stay there are small hotels. For further information contact the Centro de Iniciativas Turisticas at Tel. 95 287 07 39. There is also a small tourist office in the village itself. If you speak Spanish, the local people are warm and friendly and happy to help the visitor.

Benalmadena Port

he Costa del Sol has more than its fair share of marinas but when it comes to quality and individuality, there are few as unique as Benalmadena.
The marina is one of the world’s most amazing port and residential developments and has twice been awarded the title ‘Best marina in the world’ as well as boasting the European Blue Flag award since 1987.
With more than 1000 moorings and the benefit of the Costa del Sol’s privileged weather the marina offers a year-round diary of nautical activities and events including several major regattas and its own nautical exhibition.
This August, the marina also held its annual tuna fishing competition. The competition attracts hundreds of entries and lasts for four days. Some of Europe’s biggest tuna have been caught in these waters.
Although the marina has been in existence since the 1960’s, it was in 1982 that the face of Benalmadena changed forever after a construction period of 10 years. The port now has some of the most unusual and attractive architecture on the coast. Its individually designed apartment blocks and shops have a similar appearance to works of Gaudi the famous Spanish architect. The centrally located exclusive apartments have the appearance of a wedding cake dripping with icing.
Surrounding the marina is a wide selection of shops and a vast array of restaurants catering for every international flavour. Some of them have splendid views of the marina.
Despite its obvious attractions, Benalmadena marina offers a reasonably priced berth for the night with moorings available from just 3 euros a night and you’ll be able to save on fuel too with diesel available in the port at just 69 cents a litre and unleaded at 82.9 cents a litre.

If you want to see more of the marina and the local area, check out the official website at www.benalmadena.org

White Village Istan

It is rumoured that there are some old people in this village who have never been down to the coast……probably never wanted to, thanks to the breathtakingly beautiful scenery around them at home. Forests, fincas, mountains and the cascading waters from La Concha, which are eventually piped to the fountains in the narrow streets of whitewashed houses, surround Istan. The public washing area and the seats overlooking the valley are favourite gathering places for locals and visitors alike (the 16 kilometers of winding road up to the village offer a challenge to many cyclists) and the church square provides bars for a variety of drinks and tapas.
On Wednesday and Saturday mornings the main street into the village is home to an open-air market and there are now two hotels as well as various restaurants for those who wish to partake of rest and refreshment. Just before the entrance to the village you will find (on the right) Los Jarales – a 12 room hotel with exquisitely positioned and decorated dining areas, and in the main street on the left is Entresierras – an Argentinian-run restaurant which is very popular and often full. Further into the village near the nacimiento of the river, is the Altos de Istan – part of the Summa Hotel Group with 28 rooms and an indoor pool and sauna.
The drive itself is awe-inspiring, with the lake views and the lush vegetation, as well as the vast mountain outcrops presenting a different sight as you round each bend. Don’t drive too fast as the goatherd is often encouraging his large herd to graze on the roadside – and don’t leave without searching out the panaderia(bakery) and buying a torte de aceite – a local delicacy.
If the sound of this idyllic area tempts you, not only to visit, but to consider living there, then look no further than the new urbanisations being created at Km 8 overlooking the lake.

LA LAGUNA DE FUENTE

DE PIEDRA

Although this lagoon is a must see place for nature lovers, particularly those with an interest in birds, it is also a most interesting place for those who wish to visit somewhere a little different. It houses one of the most important colonies in Europe of those elegant pink birds, the flamingos. It was named a Natural Reserve in 1989, which status gives it special environmental protection. The Laguna de Fuente de Piedra gets its name because reputedly the water could cure kidney stones (piedra - stone).

The lake is the largest in Andalucia, 7 x 2 kms, and these rare wetlands provide the ideal breeding ground for a variety of animal and vegetable species, the most outstanding being the flamingos. The high salt content of the water gives it its white appearance. From Roman times until the 1950's, salt was collected as it crystallized on the surface of the lake as the water evaporated in the spring. As the seasons change, so too does the level of the water, drying out completely in summer, and filling up again with the autumn and winter rains.

The laying of one egg only, which takes one month to hatch, precedes the breeding season, March/July. Both father and mother feed the young. Once hatched, the feathers of the chicks are a grey/brown colour, and do not achieve their spectacular pink, white, and brown colours until they are about 4 years old. At about 10 days old the young leave the nests to form groups until they learn to fly at 2½ months. These groups of chicks can number 1000 birds, and they are looked after by a few older birds whilst the other parents search for food.

A great deal of research is being carried out on these exquisite birds, and during the time when the young form their "play groups", they are corralled in order for 300 people to enter the corral to attach identifying rings, measure the beaks, take blood tests, and weigh them. Once completed, the chicks are let loose, when they again form their groups.

The birds migrate in the autumn, some to Africa, and others to the warmer parts of Spain and Portugal.

Because of the great public interest in these exquisite birds, the Reserve has an information and visual interpretation centre where one can watch a film about the lake and its inhabitants, which although in Spanish is self-explanatory. Here also are information panels and audiovisual and computerised displays. The centre is open until 2pm. There are also authorised paths for visitors to approach the lake, and telescopes for viewing the birds more closely.

A visit to La Laguna de la Piedra makes a lovely day out, but for longer visits the company Espacios Rurales (Tel. 952 735294, www.camping-rural.com ) offers a grassed camping area, 18 2-bedroom log cabins for 4/6 people, etc. overlooking the lake. I suggest visits be made during the first five months of the year, avoiding the dry, hot season.

The little town of Fuente de Piedra is next to the A92 autovia towards Sevilla, and is just 1 hours drive from Malaga, Granada, Sevilla, and Cordoba.

Toledo

Many people are still unaware of the rich cultural history Spain enjoys, and so this month I want to write about one of its really historically fascinating towns - Toledo.

We know that Toledo was inhabited even before the Romans conquered it in 192 BC. The Visigoths ruled from 570-711, but unfortunately, very little remains to tell us of either occupation, instead Toledo, particularly the old town, with its narrow streets strung with overhanging iron balconies, is typically Moorish. The Arabs arrived in Spain in 711, and the following year established themselves in Toledo. There they stayed, living peacefully alongside Christians and Jews, until the re-conquest in the 15 th century.

Toledo is situated just 70km southeast of Madrid, and is surrounded on three sides by the river Tajo, which flows on to Portugal and then into the Atlantic. The city is enclosed by a Moorish wall with 9 gates, but one can also reach it by taking a series of escalaters which were built recently. Once there, the views are spectacular, especially of the river. There is a little "toy-town" train which covers the city, if one is tired of walking. One of the bridges crossing the river is the 14 th century Puente San Martin, considered by many to be the most beautiful in Spain. Just above it is the Franciscan monastery, the only one for monks only in Toledo. To the west is the old Jewish quarter.

Whenever in old Spanish towns where there has been a strong Moorish influence, I am always fascinated by the subsequent powerful pervasion of the Catholic Church, reflected in art, sculpture and architecture. And no where is this more evident than in Toledo´s magnificent cathedral, the second largest in Spain. It would be worth visiting Toledo if only to visit this wonderful gothic symbol of the Church´s importance. It has five aisles, 88 immense columns, 750 stained glass windows, 29 chapels, and 10 organs. Ferdinand 111 laid the first stone in 1226 and it was finished in 1493. I think the main altar is the most spectacular I have ever seen. It depicts various scenes from the life of Christ and is made entirely of gilded and painted wood. It is quite breathtaking. Again, the apse with baroque sculptures covering the walls made from Italian marble, jasper and gilded bronze, is spectacular.

A curious feature throughout the Cathedral is the sight of cardinal´s red hats suspended in the air under which the owner lies buried!

For art lovers there is a very fine selection of paintings in the sacristy, including works by Titian, Bellini, Van Dyck, Rubes, Carvaggio and, of course, El Greco. As El Greco lived much of his life in Toledo, the city boasts the finest collection in the world of his work. But perhaps his most famous work, "El Entierro del Señor de Orgaz" (the burial of Count de Orgaz) is on display at the church for which it was specifically painted, La Iglesia de Santo Tomé. One can visit "The House of El Greco", which of course only depicts the kind of house in which he would have lived, but nevertheless is interesting.

Of all the wonderful treasures in this marvellous Cathedral, for me the most memorable was a small, comparatively simple, statue of the Virgen Mary and Child, La Virgen Blanca, carved in the 13 th century. It is located in the Choir, between the two great organs - one Baroque and the other built 50 years later in the then modern Renaissance classical style. Why so memorable? I speak as a non-Catholic when I state that the expression on the Virgen´s face is the sweetest I have seen either in paintings, sculptures, or icons. The expression on the Child´s face is also beautifully carved.

Alongside the Cathedral the city is dominated by the Alcazar, the fortress. It was largely destroyed during the civil war, and is now being renovated. One of the most poignant stories from the civil war is that of the three month siege of the fortress, when it was being held by Franco´s forces, led by General Moscardo. The republicans captured the General´s son and threatened to kill him if he did not surrender. The General spoke on the telephone (which can still be seen) and said, "I love you son, but die like a man for the glory of Spain". In fact, the boy was spared, but was killed a few months later in an air raid.

Toledo is also famous, of course, for its fine steel, and its intricate Damasquene gold work, much in demand by visitors. Examples of both are easily available. Toledo´s marzipan sweetmeats are also a speciality.

Toledo has many hotels for an overnight stay, but being only 70kms from Madrid can easily be reached from there in a day. I think one gains most by having a guide, and a really good can bring the city alive. A guide can be acquired from the Asociación de Guías de Turismo.